OLD FISHING VILLAGES, TERRACED HILLSIDES OF VINES, SHADY OLIVE GROVES AND DRAMATIC COASTAL CLIFFS ARE A WALKER'S DELIGHT ON ONE OF THE WORLD’S MOST STUNNING COASTAL PATHS, THE CINQUE TERRE
Situated on Italy’s west coast, south of Genoa, the Cinque Terre walkway is named after the five villages it symbolises. Built centuries ago on hostile terrain, the pathway follows a route through these quaint villages that dot the rocky coastline. They are virtually cut off from vehicular access so walking is the ideal means of discovering them.
Starting in Levanto, the pearl of the Italian Riviera, the path begins with a flight of steps ascending steeply from the main promenade to high above the castle. It winds through cobbled lanes of prominent villas, catching the sweeping views of Levanto’s wide bay below, then melding into pine and chestnut woods.
The ridgeline footpath then gently climbs till it reaches the spectacular, panoramic views at the Sella di Punta Mesco. Along the way, narrow tracks leave the pathway veering for the secluded coves and rocky promontories of the shore below and inviting bathers and walkers for a cool dip in the sea.
Descending into Monterosso, the first of the five villages, you pass the old part of town divided from the new part (Fegina) by the medieval “Torre Aurora” (the Dawn Tower). Also worth a visit is San Francisco's church which houses the Van Dyck Crucifix.
Small resort hotels and sidewalk cafes stretch out along the vast beach, a playground for watersports and holidaymakers.
Between Moterosso and Corniglia is delightful Vernazza, with its tiny harbour and fishing boats parked in the main street. The Genovese style parish church in the main square is a wonderfully cool place to admire the ornate domes while resting tired legs.
Winding up the hillside, the first glimpse of Corniglia is of the houses, coloured in shades of pink, ochre and cream, clinging precariously to the steep rock high above the sea. It appears as if the rock has grown these colourful cubes by a feat of nature.
Meandering the lanes of the village, the path sometimes passes so close to the dwellings that you can find yourself in a backyard or passing front doors in a narrow lane with only a metre to spare either side. Numerous steps descend to a delightful bridle path for the level walk to Manarola.
The section of the walkway between Manarola and Riomaggiore is the renowned Via dell’Amore (Lovers' Pathway), cut out of the sheer cliff face. The views of layered hillsides are endless until the coast disappears beyond the horizon.
The terraced vineyards are characteristic of the area and are sustained by dry walling, a feat of engineering created by man centuries before in what was mostly inaccessible surroundings.
Along the way are numerous trattorias that offer various local dishes and wine. Simply put, the cuisine is heaven. Aside from fresh fish and seafood specialities, you will also find rabbit, game and other dishes when in season. Delicacies such as ravioli filled with fish and served with prawn sauce, shrimp scampi with pear brandy, seafood stews, fish gnocchi with pesto or shrimp flan with white truffle sauce are a few of the regional specialities.
The dry white wine and sciacchetra (a sweet desert wine) have been produced in the Cinque Terre since ancient times. These wines are hard to find and a bit of a treat as the terraced vineyards here are difficult to harvest, limiting wine production.
The five villages produce their wines under the Cinque Terre Wine Co-op, which can be visited in Manarola.
Evenings are filled with the lively chatter of Italian families strolling the streets and promenades. Ice cream vendors and restaurant waiters ply food and drink inexhaustibly till around midnight.
Beyond the Cinque Terre, walking paths extend north to the towns of Bonassola, Santa Margherita di Ligure and Camogli and as far south as the picturesque town of Portovenere, on the Poet’s Gulf (Golfo dei Poeti). Poets such as Dante, Petrarch, Byron and Shelley have praised its' beauty which has given the Gulf its name.
The Cinque Terre pathway is mostly well-established but be prepared for, what seem like interminable flights of steps to reach vantage points and the village of Corniglia. There is much to admire on the way and villages are no more than four hours walking apart.
A regional train service strings the villages together plus there are a number of ferry boats that ply between Portovenere and Portofino stopping at the five villages during the summer months.
BEST TIMES TO VISIT
The Italian Springtime, April to early June, and Autumn, from September to the beginning of November. Summer temperatures can be in the thirties and the humidity makes it uncomfortable for walking.
HOW TO GET THERE
Numerous airlines fly to Pisa or Genoa where good rail connections can be made to Santa Margherita di Ligure at the start of the walk and Monterosso or Portovenere at the end.
COST
There are a number of week-long, small group, guided walks and unguided walks that cover the region in depth. An independent tour is $1896 and guided $2380 per person share twin
GRADE
Moderate to challenging with some steep ascents and descents, steps and rocky terrain.
MEMBER'S TRAVEL LOG
Read a Member's Travel Log of her trip to the Cinque Terre.
FOR MORE INFORMATION
Call A Walker’s World – Ph 09 4867473 or walkworld@xtra.co.nz
www.walkersworld.co.nz