Wilderness Walking in the Queen Charlotte Sound
The walk begins from the wharf up a stony path that disappears into a dense canopy of trees. Orange and gold leaves from the towering beech trees speckle the path and the ever-present punga ferns are strewn this way and that, their silvery underside lightening the green of the forest floor. The first day has many short ascents and there are plenty of vantage points showing off the spectacular views of the islands and headlands in the Outer Sounds.
The walkway follows an old bridle path through to Endeavour Inlet that passes over fingers of farmland coloured with buttercups, and deep pink foxgloves before it gives way to bush of manuka and mahoe.
Set amongst magnificent native bush, is historic Furneaux Lodge, the first overnight stop after 14 of the 67 kilometre pathway.
A roaring fire and a bottle of red in the pub is a welcome on cold days. In summer, the hotel is like a graceful colonial villa with a wide verandah that looks out to the sea, across the hotel’s well-kept grounds.
At the back of the lodge, a steep rough track leads to some Falls about 30 minutes walk away.
Bellbirds and tuis herald the dawn and soon after breakfast, it’s back on the track to amble the 12 gentle kilometres around Endeavour Inlet.
The bush enfolds the pathway and walkers pass through bower upon bower of ferns and fronds.
Water is the key element for such profuse growth. Rock pools, a garden centre would be envious of, cross the path. Streams gurgle over, stepped stones in every hue from gold to chocolate, softly framed with bright green mosses and delicate ferns. The water is so clear that every rock and pebble is clearly visible and as drinking water, it is safe and pure.
There are endless vistas round every bush-clad bluff. with hardly a sign of civilization, billion dollar views, all of them.
Past numerous secret coves and bays, you reach the magnificently sited Punga Cove Resort peeking through the bush from a steep-sided spur overlooking Endeavour Inlet. This remarkable resort has chalet-style accommodation and each one has spell-binding views especially the restaurant, built on a high promontory.
The third day is the ‘big’ day, the challenging twenty kilometre walk traversing the Torea Saddle, between the Queen Charlotte Sound and the Kenepuru Sound. Fitness is a must.
The reality is ridgeline walking, ascending steeply then descending sharply. The manuka scrub either side of the track is a useful windbreak and the path is mostly grassed.
There are sweeping panoramas either side of the track of farmland, bush, bays, inlets, and in the distance, the snow-capped peaks of the Southern Alps.
Our guide had prepared healthy, scrumptious lunches plus sent the baggage on to the next night’s accommodation. Well into the walk, these luxuries seemed a blessing when our calf muscles were screaming for us to stop and our energy was waning.
An hour before reaching Portage Cove, our day’s destination, we could look back along the route, and hardly see our starting point in the distance, just hills and valleys as far as the eye could see.
You can turn the ‘big’ day into a ‘small’ day and take an easier option of the boat round to Torea Bay and walk to Portage Hotel from there. It’s the route the Maoris took to carry their waka to the Kenepuru Sound so at least it’s an historical option if not energetic.
There’s no let up for the last day which is the remaining 17 kilometres to Anakiwa and the site of Cobham Outward Bound School.
The steep path climbs directly upwards above the bay where the Portage Hotel nestles.
At two points along the way to Mistletoe Bay, there are ascents of up to four hundred metres.
Kamahi, manuka and bright yellow gorse are prolific. Views of the waterways are never far from sight.
Leaving farmland, the pathway enters regenerating forest where native birds, such as wood pigeons, tuis and wekas flit through the trees.
The views are still spectacular but dotted with pockets of civilisation encroaching on the bush.
The last section of the track is through mature forest which follows the coastline round Bottle Bay and Davies Bay.
It is the last opportunity to inhale the aroma and freshness of the bush and trail your hands along the punga fronds that uncurl to meet you.
BEST TIME TO GO – October to April.
COST: A gourmet 4 day guided walk – $1,300 share twin.
Includes: all meals(breakfast, picnic lunches and dinners daily); 3 nights lodge/resort accommodation; baggage transfers, water taxi transportation and services of an experienced guide.
OPTIONS: You can also walk unguided with all arrangements pre-booked on your behalf; take a kayak and walk option; include a free day at one of the Sounds' best resorts and take a 5 day guided trip.
For more information contact “A Walker’s World” Ph 09 4867471/3. Email walkworld@xtra.co.nz.
www.walkersworld.co.nz
This article is the property of JILL GRANT, Freelance Photographer and Journalist, 52 Cheltenham Road, Devonport, Auckland 9 NEW ZEALAND
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