12 Do Tongariro (Part 2)

Actually I was quite proud of myself in the weeks that lead up to the walk. I had gone into Smiths Sports Shoes and been fitted with some excellent walking shoes that would be suitable for training on the suburban roads around my home as well as the summer Alpine terrain of the Tongariro. I am very glad I did. None of my other shoes would have done the job so well. I think we can safely say having a shoe fetish turned out to be a good thing! I had walked the dog a few km's every day and managed two walks up Mount Manunganui. I was pretty set, or so I thought!
Working from home has made me a little complacent, now realise! The morning of our planned departure seemed like a good time to pack.
Shoes – check. Socks – check. Warm jacket – check. Hat – check. Drink bottles x 2 – check.
Dress and shoes for Dinner after – check. Swim suit for hot tub – check.
Shorts suitable for walking – ? Not a good look tramping in your undies.
Rain Jacket – ? Tongariro Alpine Crossing? Yes I will need a rain jacket.
A quick phone call to the fellow walkers waiting for me at the pick up, “Umm I’m running a bit late”.
Now I am speeding into town. The sales assistant at Katmandu was a great help. “I need some proper ladies walking shorts please and a rain jacket, pronto”. I came out very pleased with my purchases. Now I was set, or so I thought!
Our Lodge at National Park, Mountain Heights Lodge was just perfect. A bar, a hot tub, a restaurant, some very comfy bunk beds and loads of good looking staff to cater to our needs. What more do you want? Did I mention the hot tub and the bar?

I would like to add at this point that although I thoroughly enjoyed the company of all my 5 bunk room buddies it did leave us tight for space. Especially since woman of a certain age tend to pack for every possible contingency. Consider giving yourself a bit more room if you choose the bunk room option. One free bed for the bags would have been perfect.
Saturday morning dawned bright and clear. I’m not a morning person so getting in that required cup of tea, breakfast and vital cup of coffee was a bit of stretch for me with the bus being a 7am pick up, but I am proud to say on this occasion I managed to not let the team down.
The bus trip up to the start of the walk at Mangatepopo was an excellent opening to the day. The view of the mountain was stunning and our driver’s commentary on what to expect was spot on. More importantly It also gave me time to finish my coffee.

It was wickedly exciting to feel the buzz at the start of the walk. Checking out all the other hikers and what they had with them, poles, huge back packs, mini backpacks, no backpacks, heavy tramping boots, dainty ballet shoes, runners and I even saw a pair of black Doc Martins. I wonder how she felt at the end.

The walk starts off on a gentle slope with a delightful view of the twin peaks of Tongariro and Ngaurahoe. There are bubbling underground streams and sweet alpine flowers dotted about.
My walking buddies started off at a cracking pace which turned out a good move as it got us ahead of some of the main groups we started off with. It is a bit of a motorway rush hour at this stage.The last toilet stop till the other side of the pass is at the soda springs. Worth knowing this! From there you attack the devils staircase! No kidding! I was really glad we were going up and not down. Stopping to look back is a real treat. Great photo opportunities. It was like I imagine a moon scrape might look. Wild and uninhabitable. It was about then that I realised I had dropped my camera some place. Think back........The soda springs. My adorable walking buddies offered to carry my backpack and continue on while I went back to find the camera. I must say you can go quite fast without the 3 litres of water, lunch and rain coat on board! You cannot get past the slower walkers however without elbowing them off the edge. Single file only. It was during this part of the walk that I had reason to pause more than once. Mental note to self; Do not take my pre-teen children on this walk. A poor little lass about 11 was doing it very hard and we were only at the beginning of the walk. By no means the hardest part! One of my walking buddies was slipping her lollies as we went. Good idea those lollies.

Along the way You can branch off to hike up the summit of Ngaurahoe and Tongariro if you’re inclined. I will plan a bit better a head next time and do this but I am glad I chose caution on this occasion. I quizzed my speedy walking buddies, “How much training did you do?” “Not much really, A few Km’s rural road walking each day and once a week we would go up and down the mount twice followed by a few km’s on the flat”. Groan.....I had only managed to go up the mount twice in my entire training programme!

The summit of the pass was a real treat. Looking down into the crater lakes you feel like you are truly on top of the world. The contrast of the colours on this glorious day was beyond words. You can feel the power of the mighty mountain. Beware the sun. Zoom back up to my packing list add sunblock please. Beware the cold. The sun may have been fierce but so was the cold wind. Beware the wind. Bring a hair tie. It was whipping the hair into my face with such vigour that I was sure I was getting bruises.

Moving down the scoria slopes towards the craters sorted out the woman from the Barbie’s. It was hair raising. You would slide two feet for every step. Once you worked out how to move with the loose stones it was exhilarating and even gave a free foot exfoliation on the way. My shoes and socks were filled with tiny stones and grit by the time I reached the bottom.

Once over the pass the view was again magnificent. Looking across an entirely different landscape to the central plateau lakes with the green of the scrub on the slopes and the pine forests below. Somewhere down there is the next toilet stop..............Moving right along at our usual cracking pace!

I had been warned that the journey down hill was hard. How hard can going downhill be? By half way down my otherwise sturdy knees were screaming – stop this please! On the plus side. My backpack was lighter by about 2 ½ litres and a good lunch. The distance down the west face is greater than the distance up the east face and more gradual. The terrain and the vegetation changes quite rapidly until you are on a lovely lush bush track with a gentle stream guiding the way to the pickup point at Ketetahi.
Jubilation and joy. We had made it, and in time for the first 3pm bus. Whoo hoo. I gratefully sat and sipped the last of my 3 litres of water and reflected on the highs and lows of the day. All was forgiven when I looked at the fact that I was privileged enough to have had this majestic beauty available to me, that I was fit and healthy enough to be able to complete a 7 hour alpine hike and that I had the pleasure of such inspiring company of 11 other Wonder Walkers and the knowledge that a hot tub and a cold beer awaited.
Thank you Tongariro for being so kind to us. Whakamihi.

http://www.tongarirocrossing.org.nz